NOTE: Check the Photos page! Link to pictures from Monday's day trip!
After our long and slightly arduous hike, we returned to the bus and drove up a mountainside to the village of Usfiya to learn about the Druzim (plural for Druze), a religious and cultural minority in Israel. Though their roots are Arabic (having began in Egypt), Israeli Druzim do not consider themselves Arabic, and today an astounding percentage of the Druzi population are active in the Israeli military, protecting and defending their country as zealously as a Jewish Israeli, if not moreso. In fact, many Druzim serve in the highest ranks of the Israeli military and air force.
We were welcomed at a Druzi man's home where he gave us a glimpse at the life and belief system of the Druzim. Among the interesting details:
1. Druzim do not accept converts.
2. There is a belief in reincarnation (human to human).
3. There are secular and religious Druzim, and among the religious they lead very strict lifestyles. There seems to be little to no middle ground between the two lifestyles.
4. Women are highly respected and honored within the religion/culture. In fact, according to our host, some men are even jealous of the status of women among them.
After a very brief talk, giant platters of food were brought out and musicians (a lutist and drummer) set up their equipment. We ate with the sounds of Arabic music in our ears, and once the food was cleared we were encouraged to get up and dance. With so many Latin Americans among us, we didn't need to be told twice!
Despite the feeling that the experience - the talk, the food, the music, the dancing - was well-rehearsed and oft-used, we greatly enjoyed ourselves and left wishing we had learned more. But there was no time for that since it was time for the requisite shopping trip!
Off to another Druzi village we went where we were let loose along a short street lined with touristy Druzi shops. The shopkeepers were kind but aggressive, eager to make a sale to these wide-eyed, unsuspecting foreigners. A bunch of students with shekels burning in their pockets? The shopkeepers needn't have feared.
I also learned the secret to haggling: Don't say anything. At one point I entered a shop which had a wide selection of Israeli/Arab clothing. To one side of me were the wrap skirts I love so much, and to the other side was none other than the pants I love! Of course I was going to buy something, and a girl who worked at the shop stood there staring at me as I picked through the colors and patterns. I'm sure she was impatiently thinking "Pick something, already!" and occasionally she commented on the price: "One for 40 shekel, three for 100." A little while later, after I'd commented a little on this skirt or another, she said "I'll give you one for 35. Take one." When I expressed interest in the 35 shekel pants, she eventually lowered it to 25 without me even offering another price. Apparently if you just have more patience than the other person, they'll keep lowering the price just to get you out of the store!
In the end, I bought a skirt and a pair of pants for 55 shekel (down from 75!). I'm happy :)
Your descriptions are lovely. I know when I get to see the places you've seen, they will all feel familiar!
ReplyDeleteI remember having dinner with a group of Druzim when we were on our birthright trip - it was excellent, and vegetarian (especially good for my sister-in-law). And they served strong, sweet tea after. Yum! We didn't dance, though. Lucky you!
ReplyDeleteI love the tea!
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